Is ‘Quiet Luxury’ Sucking The Fun Out Of Fashion?
The concept of quiet luxury has become tiresome to read about and surprising that it continues to persist. It seems to be a byproduct of social media's fixation on popular TV show aesthetics, representing a fashion trend that embraces a low-key, logo-free style while prioritizing high-quality materials. Positioned somewhere between normcore and minimalism, it involves pairing extravagant items like a $1,000 USD Loro Piana baseball hat with a $2,750 USD cardigan from The Row. It embodies the likes of Sofia Richie Grainge in a subtle Chanel ensemble, or Jacob Elordi off-duty, casually heading to Erewhon. It's reminiscent of Succession, the Olsen twins, and Gwyneth Paltrow clad in all black, attempting to distance herself from the 2016 ski collision incident at Utah's luxury Deer Valley Resort. It's the collective "shh!" from the world's wealthiest glitterati.
Fashion blogger Benji Park, known as @fashionboy on TikTok, describes quiet luxury as a way for the ultra-wealthy to signal their membership in an exclusive clique. According to luxury fashion expert Bernard Garby, who has a strong background in the industry, it represents a new form of maximalism through minimalism. Quiet luxury is pervasive, but one must pay attention to labels to identify it.
On TikTok, the term "quiet luxury" has garnered over 38.5 billion views, and Google statistics reveal a 900% increase in searches for this term, along with "stealth wealth" and "old money style." These numbers clearly indicate that high-fashion consumers are increasingly gravitating towards well-crafted basics rather than flashy statement pieces. However, as the affluent adopt this understated approach to style, one may wonder what's happening to the excitement and joy in fashion.
September's Spring/Summer 2023 runways presented a maximalist's delight, fueled by mood boards brimming with previous years' -cores, -cores, and more -cores. Yet, as the season unfolds, catching a glimpse of those daring and delicious looks outside the confines of the runway feels as rare as winning the lottery. Where are the eye-catching X-ray Off-White™ blazers, GCDS' vibrant pink SpongeBob SquarePants varsity sweaters, or Jacob Bixenman's playful "bubble object" from Eckhaus Latta's El Jardin del Paraiso show?
In the era of stealth wealth, "fun fashion" has become a scarcity beyond the catwalks, and from a viewer's perspective, it can be rather uninspiring. Here's a case for embracing boldness: If you can comfortably afford Loewe's Pixelated Top, we implore you to navigate Manhattan's streets as if you're scaling the virtual world of GTA IV's Liberty City.
Yes, this all may sound a touch absurd, but the underlying point is clear: luxury designers are reveling in boundless creativity, while their consumers (for the most part) are playing it safe. If the affluent elite are passing on fashion's eccentric offerings, how can these brands remain viable without compromising their artistic vision to cater to consumer desires? In many instances, they are forced to pivot.
While it may seem like a sweeping statement, there is evidence to support the notion that luxury fashion is moving away from flashy aesthetics.
According to data research company EDITED, there has been an 18% year-over-year decline in the release of new apparel, handbags, and footwear featuring logos by luxury online brands. Similarly, patterned pieces now make up only 23% of luxury fashion, compared to 27% in the previous year. The recent runways of Prada and Miu Miu also reflect this trend, with a subdued color palette taking center stage. EDITED reports an 11% increase in black apparel, a 59% increase in brown, and a staggering 64% increase in grey year-over-year.
Beyond the realm of pop culture, there are socio-economic factors driving this shift. While the post-lockdown period allowed for fashion to express exuberance, challenging economic times have reshaped the landscape, prompting luxury consumers to opt for more understated styles.
Quiet luxury, as a concept, has been present in high-end fashion for as long as luxury brands have existed. We have witnessed the rise of minimalist styles in response to economic downturns in the past. For instance, during the Great Recession in 2008, designers such as Jil Sander and Phoebe Philo for Celine presented collections characterized by understated elegance. These collections appealed to consumers seeking quality and longevity rather than extravagant statements in their wardrobes. Now, with the advent of TikTok, we have a neatly packaged and marketable name for this aesthetic.
This is the cycle of fashion
In many ways, the quiet luxury aesthetic is accessible to all consumers due to its discreet appeal. Beyond concealing one's wealth, the essence of this trend lies in finding pieces that endure the test of time. While "fun fashion" is thrilling, statement pieces often have a shorter lifespan due to their memorable nature and fashion's fear of outfit repetition. However, given the timeless nature of quiet luxury, could this trend actually be the catalyst for more sustainable shopping practices that the industry needs?
